Day 4 | Ullapool to Durness | 149 km

I am pleasantly surprised when I can start today’s ride in short sleeves. Blue sky is something I never expected either. It may not last all day so I’m going to enjoy it all the more.

We have a long day ahead of us with over 2,700 metres of hills to climb, and they start early and often. It seems we just finish a descent and we’re going back up again. The scenery makes it all worth it though. It’s absolutely exquisite.

Quite a bit of today’s route includes single track roads with passing places for when I meet a vehicle. In some areas, it’s so quiet that I’m probably more likely to encounter a sheep on the road than a car.

After 47 km we take a break in Lochinver. By now the sky is clouding over and it’s time to put on my jacket. The short sleeves were great while they lasted.

The hills continue for the next segment, and the fabulous scenery does as well. All the villages are charming. They help distract me from my dwindling supply of energy.

After 88 km, we meet up at the Kylesku Hotel for a late lunch. My hummus sandwich doesn’t last long.

With 36 km to go, I’m feeling completely spent. I’m ready for this ride to end but the hills aren’t over quite yet. At the top of the next one, I see a familiar van parked at a lookout with Fiona standing next to it waving me in. She explains that I’ve reached the halfway point of the tour and we’re celebrating with a dram of whisky for each of us. It warms me up nicely before I head on my way.

With 20 km to go, I start to feel either a light rain or a heavy mist – it’s hard to tell. In any case, I’m close to the end, I finally have a good tailwind and the road has flattened out. All’s well that ends well.

I arrive just after 6 with a great sense of satisfaction at having completed today’s challenge. We have a delicious dinner at the Smoo Cave Hotel and recount stories from the day. The server’s accent is so thick you could slice it, but if I really listen I can usually understand.

Tonight I’m staying in this lovely seaside cottage.

9 Comments

  1. Halfway! How thrilling! We’re really enjoying following you as you ride…glad it’s you, not us! Haha. We continue praying for you for safety and strength daily to continue on! God bless you in the days to come! Enjoy the second half!

  2. Nice job! Congrats on getting to the half-way point, that’s worth celebrating! Beautiful photos and landscape, it’s amazing how vast and quiet some of those areas are. The weather probably helps!

    1. Yes, the halfway celebration was a nice surprise. Much like parts of BC, there are some long stretches of seemingly untouched wilderness, which often makes the best photos!

      1. Am sure you built your extraordinary stamina through all those Red Riding Hood excursions to the old lady next door. (As the French say: Formidable!)

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