We set off at 8:45 on wet roads with a long day ahead of us. Puddles combined with intermittent rain give me wet shoes from the get go.
Just 16 km later we reach the start of the infamous climb up Bealach na Bà through the mountains of the Applecross peninsula. It’s considered the toughest climb in the UK, largely because of the unpredictable weather.
Shortly after I begin the 9 km climb, it starts raining. Not a light shower, but the stinging kind of rain that hurts my face and legs. It is accompanied, of course, by a powerful headwind.
It gets so bad that I have trouble controlling the bike. Gusts of wind threaten to blow me over, and the only way to prevent it is to stay in the saddle the entire time and keep my centre of gravity low. Even reaching for my water bottle is risky because it makes me less stable. Getting blown off the bike could lead to tumbling down the rocky hillside to my left.
Never have I cycled so slowly uphill. At times, my speed dips as low as 4 km/h. If I go any slower I’ll tip over. Cars pass occasionally and the etiquette is whichever one of us is closer to a passing place, we pull over and wait for the other to go by. I find it very difficult to clip back in to my pedals on such a steep, narrow incline with the wind tossing me to and fro.
Every once in a while I turn around and look back at how far I’ve come.
The rain eases up for a few minutes here and there, but it’s astonishing how fast the weather can shift in these mountains.
As I approach the top, the rain gets worse and then it turns into hail. At this point, I have lost all feeling in my fingers and toes. The descent has the same hairpin turns and wet roads as the climb so I don’t dare go any faster than 40 km/h.
Once I make it down, I go to the café at the Applecross Inn and a few of the guys are already there. It takes quite a while for my teeth to stop chattering and for me to stop shivering. I feel better after three cups of tea with extra sugar. The lady who runs the place looks puzzled when she asks, “Did ye no think tae check the forecast?”
Eventually Paul arrives with the van, having rescued six people who abandoned their bikes on the climb. He returned later to pick up the bikes. Only five of us made it up the climb – Chris, Tom, Andy, Dave and me.
I try not to think about the fact that we still have 108 km to go. Before we leave, we get our bags out of the van and put on a dry set of bike clothes. It will most assuredly rain again this afternoon but it still helps.
The next leg of the ride starts out fairly flat and gets progressively more hilly. We follow the coast for a while and it’s absolutely stunning.
I ride for 65 km in intermittent rain without a break and by this time I’m famished. I reach the Gorse Bush Café at 4:00. A bowl of lentil soup is just what I need to warm up.
The last 40 km doesn’t get any easier. I ride with Viv and it rains most of the way with a horrible headwind. When we reach Gairloch, there’s a beautiful sandy beach that I didn’t expect to see.
Viv and I finally arrive at the Poolewe Hotel at 6:50. We all trade stories about the day over dinner and get a little bit closer as a group.
Tomorrow is a much shorter distance so I’m hoping it’ll feel like somewhat of a rest day. I could use one.
Lynn's Bike Ride 
A very punishing day! Hopefully you will soon get to a point where the wind will be at your back
I’m anticipating a tailwind in a couple days, but it’s so hard to know. The weather can shift so suddenly here.
Wow sounds like a tough climb! Nice you can do some of the segments together. Hope your Sunday is flat and easy!
Thanks! Yes it does help to have someone to ride with to help pass the time.
Ah dear, the Bealach na Bà can be cruel. Sorry that the Scottish weather isn’t treating you better!! The hot cups of tea and lentil soup were well-deserved 😊
Yes, it was a rough day indeed. I think once is enough for Bealach na Bà! Never again. The weather is too much of a wild card.
Wow. What an accomplishment! Excellent grit – must be all those lentils.